Jaisalmer, India

Jaisalmer; a city in the heart of the desert. We'd arrived from Jodhpur by bus, feeling tired, overheated and in my case quite poorly. A tuk tuk driver brought us to our accommodation; a place named Hotel The Silk Route on the outskirts of the city. We walked along a path with makeshift houses on either side to our hotel, a beautiful honey coloured stone building. Our room was a delight, a huge double bed embellished with intricately designed cushions and throws, walls left natural in warm stone and an immaculate bathroom. It was definitely the best room that we had booked in India and probably in all of our travels and due to low season we got it at a bargain price. Despite the lovely surroundings I was still feeling weak and ill, while I rested in the room Craig went to the hotel roof terrace for dinner and a beer. 

Narrow Streets In Jaisalmer In India

The next day my stomach upset had still not improved and I was starting to feel very low, when I'm feeling unwell my emotions seem to get the better of me, all I wanted was to be at home in my own bed. I couldn't face going outside and ended up spending the day indoors sleeping and trying my best to preserve the energy that I had as it had been a while since I'd eaten any food. 

Narrow Streets In Jaisalmer In India

Finally, when I woke the following day I was feeling much better. My mood had improved dramatically from the day before and I was ready to face the world again. We left the hotel and walked into the city, along the narrow roads between the tall buildings to a temple which we admired for its carvings from the outside. Onwards we walked to the fort, we had decided to hire a guide as the fort is so big and has people living inside its walls. Our guide explained the quirks of the fort, one of which being that the road and gates leading up to the fort are in a special formation so if you're stood at one gate you cannot see the next one ahead. We went inside a Jain Temple and saw hundreds of little statues carved from stone, light dappled through gaps in the ceiling. Our next stop was at a viewpoint where we could see our hotel in the distance and the desert. We could certainly tell that we were in a city in the desert too, it was almost like the fort was made from sand and the temperature was over 40 degrees celsius. The alleyways inside the fort were decorated with paintings of elephants and colourful doorways but it was obvious that this was a well lived in community rather than a preserved museum like other forts and palaces that we had explored in Rajasthan. The guide walked us to another viewpoint which was much quieter and where we could have our photograph taken before leading us to a family owned workshop where jewellery was made. We didn't feel pressured to buy anything which was lucky and after a quick look around caught a tuk tuk back to the hotel, by this point my energy was waining and the heat and lack of food was making me feel faint.

Hundreds Of Figures Adorn The Walls Of The Jain Temple In Jaisalmer In India

Intricate Carving In A Jain Temple In Jaisalmer, India

We enjoyed a drink on the hotel roof terrace where we could see the fort lit up at night in the distance. Perhaps it was a mistake coming to the desert in the height of summer but the beautiful hotel had served as a perfect place to be when poorly and the city, our last stop in Rajasthan had been a hassle-free and tourist-free destination. 

Us In Jaisalmer In India

Next: A long journey back to Delhi and onwards to Amritsar; a city in the state of Punjab.

🎥 India video:

Have you been to Jaisalmer? If so, what did you think? Maybe you're planning a trip? I've got tonnes of advice and tips I can share. Let me know in the comments below. 

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Nazca, Peru

Nazca; a town in the Peruvian desert with one big draw, the mysterious Nazca lines.

We took a comfortable overnight coach from Cusco to Nazca which arrived in the early morning. On board the coach we met Carl; a Swedish guy travelling the world without flying. His route and method of travel was fascinating; from Europe all the way to Rio de Janeiro by cargo ship stopping at various ports along the way. We went out for breakfast together, Carl told us about an ancient cemetery close by called Chauchilla Necropolis where you can see Nazcan mummies in open graves. It sounded creepy. Our visit to Nazca was solely to see the Nazca lines and we weren't aware of any other sights so we were intrigued.

The Nazcan Desert, Peru

Landscape surrounding the Nazca Cemetery 

Our hostel manger organised a car and driver for us; we picked another guy up on the way, funnily enough someone from our Machu Picchu tour group. We drove out into the arid desert, along tan coloured dusty roads. The desert is a dry place that sees barely any rain, as with many places on our journey the heat was exhausting. We pulled up and paid a small entrance fee. All I could see were a few shelters dotted about the flat landscape and some pathways outlined with rocks. I was preparing myself, Carl had said that he'd seen a documentary about the mummies which had been the stuff of nightmares. I didn't know what to expect. We walked up to an open grave sheltered from the sun with a makeshift wooden structure and grassy roof. The mummies were sat upright, skeletal legs crossed with skin still intact in places and long dreadlocked hair. Their jaws were open in an expression of horror and long matted hair gathered in a heap on the floor. Embellished cloth hung from the bones and inside the graves were preserved pottery and food including corn. The remarkable fact is that these mummies are over 1000 years old; I found this fact hard to reconcile in my head. More than 1000 years old and still displaying soft tissue and hair. The atmosphere has preserved the bodies incredibly and some research after visiting taught me that certain rituals helped to lessen decay including coating the deceased with resin and drying techniques.

We walked by each grave; along the paths were scattered human bones. The graves had been heavily plundered by locals looking to make money from any valuables to be found, bones were removed and left in disarray throughout the area. Luckily government protection has kept grave robbers at bay for many years and conservationists have replaced as many bodies as possible in their original resting places.

In the end I didn't find the cemetery to be creepy. I found it truly astonishing that these ancient people have been preserved and glad that their history can live on. Many people have heard about the Nazca lines, but not many think about the civilisation of people that created the spectacle or that lived in the area and predate the Incan and Mayan people.

Nazca Landscape from the Plane

Nazcan Landscape from the Plane

The next morning we woke up early to catch our short flight over the Nazca lines. We decided to fly early as there's less turbulence in the morning and we'd heard stories of people becoming very ill as the small plane banks left and right. We arrived at the tiny airport and were weighed, we then waited a few minutes before being called up. We'd be flying with two pilots and three other passengers. We were placed in the plane by our weight, Craig was seated at the front and I was at the back with two seats to myself. We put on our retro looking green headphones so that we could hear the pilots commentary. Contrary to reports we'd heard about safety we felt like we were in good hands, the two pilots were extremely professional. We sped along the runway and were off!

Green Headphones 

The landscape was overwhelmingly brown, dusty and flat. There were a few hills not too far away which provided some much welcome greenery to the desert. We flew over many of the lines and biomorphs which are the lines in animal shapes. It was incredible to see these patterns and creatures in the landscape made over a thousand years ago and subject to such mystery. We learned that the lines were made by removing the reddish brown top layer of dirt revealing the lighter colour earth underneath. Some of the biomorphs created include a hummingbird, spider, and a monkey with a perfectly spiralled tail. These were my favourites of the lines. There is also a human figure referred to as 'the astronaut' due to a shape around the head resembling a helmet. This could be one of the reasons why there is a conspiracy that the lines were alien-made and not man made, how would a civilisation over 1000 years old know what an astronaut looked like? The crazy theories are what give this amazing sight intrigue although I think it's amazing enough to imagine the Nazca people using simple methods to create such wonders that they wouldn't have been able to quite see properly from the ground.

The Monkey in Nazca, Peru

The Astronaut at Nazca, Peru

The pilots swirled the plane around so we could all see each of the patterns and biomorphs, I snapped away on the camera but also made sure to really look as some of them blend easily into the landscape. The 30 minute flight was coming to an end and so we headed back to the airport filled with excitement that we had witnessed one of Earths most intriguing and mysterious wonders. Motion sickness had not surfaced one bit for me thanks to a tablet I had taken prior to the flight and so it had been a completely enjoyable experience and one of the highlights of our trip so far.

The Hummingbird at Nazca, Peru 

A Sense of Scale; The Lizard, The Tree and The Hands with the Watchtower and Road

We got chatting to an Aussie guy from our flight and all went out for lunch together. I had a plate of rice and beans with a fried egg and sweet plantain, the beginning of my love for a cuisine found typically in parts of the Americas. In the afternoon we picked up our bags and caught the bus to Huacachina an oasis in the middle of sand dunes. The journey was fairly short and we passed by the Nazca lines watchtower on the way. After a short taxi ride from the bus station to Huacachina we checked in and then met Carl for dinner who had arrived the day before. Huacachina had a travellers vibe to it and thanks to the weekend was bustling. The warm air made walking at night a joy and we were looking forward to a couple of days of downtime.

Desert Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The Streets of Huacachina, Peru

The following day Craig and I enjoyed lunch together before he went to try sand boarding for the first time. As a keen skateboarder in his teens he was excited to try the sport which is similar to snowboarding but apparently slightly more difficult. I enjoyed a peaceful afternoon of writing. Craig returned sweaty and covered in sand top to toe. We watched GoPro footage of his attempts and I was very impressed, he was a natural. From the footage the dunes looked very high so I was quite glad that I sat this activity out as I think I would have been too scared to slide over the edge and I definitely would have spent more time on my bum than on my feet.

The Oasis of Huacachina, Peru

The next day we checked out of our pricey room and moved over the road to the hotel Carl was staying at as there was a pool and relaxing sun lounge area. We had a day by the pool and went out for dinner together, besides that it was blissfully uneventful. The next day we managed to jump on a coach leaving that minute to Lima where Craig and I would be staying with a local family for a few days.

🎥 Peru video:

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Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

The border crossing from Chile to Bolivia is pretty basic to say the least. It was the first stop on our Salar de Uyuni tour which would take us from the desert of San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni a town by the famous salt flat in Bolivia. Before embarking on our three day, two night tour by Jeep we had to formally exit Chile and enter country number six of our travels, Bolivia. The immigration office was a small wooden shack in the middle of nowhere surrounded by 4X4's and tourists. We queued in the wind to receive our stamps before breakfast by the Jeep and being sorted into our tour group. We were put with two Italian guys and two Brazilian guys and we met the man who would take care of us; for the next three days he would be our tour guide, driver and cook. 

Bolivia Border Crossing

Salar de Uyuni Jeep

We jumped in the Jeep and first visited a clear lake surrounded by mountains, the next stop was a desert-like landscape. The third stop was a colourful lake, the yellow grass clashed with the azure skies. While many people took a dip in the thermal pool we decided instead to admire the stunning scenery. Craig was in awe of the colours in the landscape and couldn't stop taking photographs. We had lunch in a building by the lake and I for one was very impressed, mostly because there was mashed potatoes. I haven't had mash since leaving the U.K. and at home it is one of my favourite foods! We continued on to a geyser field and walked through the sulphur smelling steam, it was like walking among the clouds. The mud bubbled and the minerals stained the earth with bright colours. Our last stop of the day was to see flamingoes though they were quite far away and the wind was whipping at our faces. We shared a room with the rest of the group, I had trouble sleeping and so took a look out of the window only to see the brightest stars I think I've ever seen. 

White Lake

Spectrum of Colour

I completely forgot that we were in a new timezone and woke up an hour too early. I spent the extra time day dreaming before breakfast and packing everything back on to the jeep. We drove to a rock formation that looks like a huge camel and a lost city which was a joy to walk around. We climbed rocks and stood in huge holes in the cliffs, one of our stops was so beautiful and peaceful that I relished sitting alone away from everyone else to admire my surroundings. A visit to Black Lake saw us climb to the top of some rocks before spotting a type of rabbit and some llamas. A highlight of the day for me was a visit to a town with a railway line running through it. The weather had completely turned; from blue skies there were ominous black clouds and the landscape was very atmospheric. We walked along the railway lines passing a stopped train and took photographs. I couldn't help but think about my drawings and how this sight would make a wonderful series of work in ink. 

Bolivian Landscape

Peaceful Contemplation

We checked into a salt hotel which was a new experience; as described the hotel is completely made of salt, the floor is made from ground up salt and crunchy underfoot. We had a private room which was very pretty with a view over the salt flat. We woke before sunrise to drive to the salt flat, the stars were still twinkling. I couldn't believe how the flat terrain stretched on for miles into the distance. We watched the sunrise and then drove to Isla Incahuasi an island in the middle of the flat covered in cacti. We had breakfast after a wander amongst the cacti and then drove to a spot to take perspective photos. Now, I don't really have patience for moments like this. Perspective photos are hard to achieve, they require teamwork and also involve having to lie on the hard, rough salty floor with the camera. I found it difficult asking for help with the kind of photo's that I wanted and eventually gave up in a huff. 

Isla Incahuasi

Jump!

We continued to the final stop. We had been informed that Uyuni had been barricaded due to some sort of strike and would be inaccessible. The Uyuni train graveyard that I'd been really looking forward to seeing was a no-go. With the festive season just around the corner we had no idea how we would make it to Sucre and the nice accommodation that we had already booked. We were talking with our group and the group that we had been doing the tour alongside about what to do next, we tried bargaining with our driver to take us out of the little town and onto a bigger one and he said no. We had been stranded in a small dusty town just outside the salt flat with hundreds of other backpackers and nobody knew what to do. Another backpacker approached us to ask what our plans were, she said she had asked her driver to take her out of the town and he had quoted her $250 USD. I started to panic. We didn't have that kind of money to spend but maybe we'd have no choice? Our driver said that although he wasn't willing to take us any further he did know of a coach to the next biggest city Ururo. He drove us to the coach stop and we all snagged the last seats. The price was usually 50 bolivianos, when writing our names on the list it went up to 80 bolivianos, by the time we went to pay it was 100 bolivianos. It was frustrating but luckily £1 is equivalent to 8 bolivianos so it wasn't the end of the world. 

Oruro, the unintended stop on our Bolivian itinerary was an interesting one. We found a hotel by the bus stop and all checked in. The room was dank and there was so much noise outside, the beds were hard as rocks and the bathroom smelt like raw sewage. I started to cry and tearily told Craig that I didn't want to travel anymore. Any situation outside of my control seems to have a negative impact on me, I'm apparently incapable of taking things in my stride and maybe thats something I need to work on, or maybe thats how i'll always be. In the evening we all went out for dinner via the massive Christmas market that took up all of the streets. The neon lighting and brash Christmas decorations were a sight to behold. The next day we missed breakfast accidentally by 9 minutes and went out in search of bus tickets. Even finding bus tickets wasn't straight forward so we bought tickets to Potosí in the hope of being able to continue to Sucre. 

🎥 Bolivia:

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